The big grey skies of Xi’an, China

What effect does a dirty grey sky have on a traveler?

China is known internationally for its grimy air, but when Masayo and I decided to begin our three-month trip through China in the city of Xi’an (西安), we didn’t know that the air would in fact be a kind of blanket, trapping us (happily) in the distant feel of this city. The skies seemed to match the ancient stone of the streets and walls.

It felt like we were miles and years away from Osaka, Japan where we’d come from.

In fact, the first thing I saw as I edged towards the airport exit was a huge grey building across the parking lot with large billboards along the side of it. We were sitting in an overpriced coffee shop drinking a large hot glass of tea with huge leaves and stems in it, so I couldn’t see very high to the top of the building.

But after stepping outside, I realized it was no building – it was Xi’an’s air.

“I guess we’re in China now!” I thought.

We ended up spending several days in Xi’an; it’s a great introduction to China because it just feels so old, but it bustles with modern life. You can admire the stately and strong feel to its ancient stone buildings and chilly, winding back alleys.

And it was indeed very grey most of our time there.

To get accustomed to China, and to see our new temporary surroundings, Masayo and I spent a few days getting to know the area of central Xi’an that is enclosed by the ancient city wall. Although the city extends miles beyond these walls in every direction, we mostly stayed inside, where our hotel was, and where there were countless buildings to gawk at and alleyways to wander down.

Xi’an City Wall

One day we walked around part of the Xi’an City Wall, which gave us some great views over the city. You can actually walk around the entire thing, which is quite a hike, but we elected to climb down a huge stairway about halfway around and walk back through the town, so we could see more of Xi’an up close.

Overall, in Xi’an we discovered small restaurants with some excellent food, found a Starbucks for morning coffee, and watched old men play checkers outside despite the cold weather.

Xi’an may not be a common first destination for travelers to China, but I highly recommend it. Square in the middle of the country, and older than imaginable, Xi’an is China at its most ancient, busy, and self-assured.

Have you been to a place with big, dark skies? How did affect the way you felt about the place?

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