Why you oughta visit Guanajuato, Mexico

May 18, 2010

Man oh man have I got an idea for you – stop whatever you’re doing and go visit Guanajuato, Mexico!

Guanajuato is a mid-sized town in central Mexico and is an entire world unto itself, hidden in the hills. It’s full of the most colorful buildings, the friendliest people, and the most varied, delicious meals you’ll find anywhere. (And it’s great for budget travelers.)

I went there for two weeks with my travel partner Masayo. We loved it, and my diabetes even behaved – mostly. I was running out of supplies though; would I be able to find insulin and other things at Guanajuato’s pharmacies? As it turns out, it would be tougher than I thought, but I did it. A diabetic always finds a way. (See below.)

jeremy-colorful-guanajuato-streets

Guanajuato is a strikingly lovely place, perhaps obvious from the fact that the entire town (plus some old silver mines up in the hills) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Streets are laid out in an almost random pattern, careering up and down and around hills while boxy, color-splashed buildings are jumbled throughout the city blocks and scattered along the sides of the hills on the edge of town.

jeremy-masayo-fountain-guanajuato-mexico

Me and Masayo, going Mexican in Guanajuato.

Masayo and I ended up here on a spur-of-the-moment trip inspired by the fact that my father had a time share he wasn’t going to be using. We chose Guanajuato from a list, but actually spent the first few days a few kilometers from Guanajuato in a teeny town called Valenciana where the time share hotel was.

But now we have moved into the Casa del Angel hostel down in Guanajuato proper. And what a fun place Guanajuato has proved to be! If you come here you’ll see that life in this town is a series of street festivals, endless alleyways with bold, fresh paint jobs, and a good-natured vibrancy in the air day and night.

two-vw-beetles-guanajuato-mexico

The Casa del Angel hostel

The hostel we chose is based on the theme of angels, as you can probably tell by its name. Masayo and I got the most expensive room available, since I was worried about a touch of sickness I felt and wanted easy access to a private bathroom. TMI? Welcome to my blog.

casa-del-angel-hostel-room-guanajuato-mexico

Our room at Casa del Angel.

This hostel charges for rooms by the person, not by the room. We each had to pay about US$15 a night. This is the same system as in, say, Japan, and I really dislike it. Probably because I’m from the United States, where you pay for the room and cram as many people as you can into it if need be.

But as every traveler knows, when it comes to local realities you either put up with them or go home.

Anyway, what we get is an excellent value: a cavernous room with gigantic angel paintings on the red and yellow walls, plus two big beds and some big, funky furniture. Sitting by the big window reading, or hanging out on our little concrete balcony to watch the town go by, is bliss itself.

(And I wasn’t sick after all.)

jeremy-friends-guanajuato-hostel

Breakfast in the hostel. I was just waking up, my new friends were just getting in.

The free wifi doesn’t really work in our room, and I discovered the door could be unlocked with a hairpin, or a long thumbnail, or pretty much anything else. But these problems don’t matter much: spending all day on the internet is a crime in a beckoning town like this, and the hostel staff replaced the lock for me (after trying to brush it off as unimportant; I had to insist).

One morning a big group was in the hostel for breakfast. They were foreigners who’d been out at cantinas all night and were in especially jovial spirits. We all drank coffee and ate free bread and jam together as one guy from France explained that he was an entrepreneur who was helping to establish recycling programs in Mexico City. (That’s him wiping his face in the above photo.)

jeremy-arguing-with-angel-statue-guanajuatoThe staff at this hostel speaks only Spanish. Now, I was quite good at Spanish for a long time after high school, but years in Japan has finally made me rusty. The people are patient though so they let me try my Spanish out on them. As in the restaurants, it comes back in pieces. Each complete sentence is a breakthrough.

jeremy-open-mouth-fish-napkin-holder-guanajuato

In the town of Guanajuato

Walking around the town and getting lost in the streets and alleys is the fun part. There always seems to be something happening: small informal parades have marched through town almost every day we’ve been here, featuring groups of trumpeters, people in masks and costumes, and/or dancing troupes.

“Even fun-loving Thailand doesn’t have street parties every day!”, I keep thinking.

steps-guanajuato-university-mexico

Universidad de Guanajuato, meters from our hostel.

Meals have been good too, and varied: Mexican food like quesadillas, of course, and black bean dishes. But also paella and cafe-type pastries too. (My blood sugar after paella, incidentally, was 112. Yes I was proud.)

Guanajuato prices are acceptable even to low-budget travelers like us, and the food is always great. The weather has been so nice that most places have outdoor seating, often in little hidden plazas made of cobblestones.

colorful-dancers-feathers-guanajuato-parade mexican-wrestlers-guanajuato-parade

We even found a Japanese place run by a Japanese couple on a side street, and we couldn’t help but stop in to chat and eat.

Diabetes report: buying insulin and medicine in Guanajuato

lantus-insulina-glargina-mexican-package

Lantus boxes in Spanish. Diabetics get an extra taste of the local culture and language when they travel.

I went to some pharmacies to check insulin availability. Near Cruz Rojo (Red Cross) Hospital there were two pharmacies, ISSEG Farmacia and Farmacia San Francisco de Asis. Here’s what I found at each with prices in pesos (M$) and US dollars ($):

Humalog (10mL vial)
× ISSEG: None
 San Francisco: M$454 / $36

Lantus (10mL vial)
ISSEG: M$602 / $48
San Francisco: M$642 / $51

Lantus (3mL OptiPen refill)
ISSEG: M$194 / $15
× San Francisco: None

Lantus (3mL SoloStar pen)
× ISSEG: None
San Francisco: M$193 / $15

NovoRapid (same as Novolog) cartridge refill 3mL x 3
× ISSEG: None
San Francisco: M$687 / $55

OneTouch Ultra test strips x 25
ISSEG: M$394 / $31
× San Francisco: None

So insulin is cheaper than in the U.S., but you may have to shop around to find what you need since different places have different stuff. Test strips aren’t any cheaper, but are at least available.

jeremy-farmacias-similares-guanajuato

Thyroid medication
Neither pharmacy had my thyroid medication, which is called Synthroid or Eltroxin. I asked at a third pharmacy, Farmacias Similares, but they too shook their head apologetically – “no tiene”, we don’t have it. Right before giving up, in a burst of inspiration, I asked if they could get some, and the lady said yes. “Why didn’t you just say that to begin with?” I thought.

She said she’d order it and I should come back in three days.

When I went back in three days, the same lady recognized me but again said, “no tiene”. I didn’t understand. Hadn’t she ordered them like she said?

I never found out. She shrugged half-heartedly and said try Farmacia San Francisco de Asis. Well, I’d already asked there, but what the hell. I went back and asked again.

This time, success: as it turns out, it’s called Eutirox in Mexico, not Eltroxin. They had some and it was cheap.

jeremy-farmacia-san-francisco-de-asis-guanajuato

Buying medication in Mexico

Here’s what I learned:

  • Find out the local brand name.
  • Try multiple pharmacies.
  • If they say “no”, they may mean they don’t have it now. Ask if they can order it.
entienda-la-diabetes-sign-guanajuato

“Understand diabetes and take control” sign in Guanajuato. If that’s not a welcome especially for me, I don’t know what is.

Spanish for pharmacies

A little Spanish helped me out while talking to the pharmacists:

  • “Do you have this?” – ¿Tiene ésto? (T-N-A esto?)
  • “diabetic” – diabético (dee a BEH ti ko)
  • “insulin” – insulina (een su LEAN uh)
  • “Can you order it?” – ¿Puede obtenerlo? (pweh deh oab te NAIR lo?)

I’m actually not sure if those are accurate, but they all worked for me.

Blood sugar check.

Shameless public blood sugar check.

Want to go to Guanajuato?

Guanajuato is a wonderful place, truly. It’s a great example of what traveling is all about: discovering a place that gives you good vibes in different ways, is affordable and fun, and has everything you need.

pink-sunset-in-guanajuato-mexico

Diabetes can react badly to rice and beans, but with enough insulin and a little experience you should be able to keep blood sugar mostly in range.

It’s certainly worth the effort. Now go make your own plans to explore this intoxicating part of Mexico!

Do you have any experiences buying diabetes supplies or medicine in another country?

Thanks for reading. Suggested:

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Support independent travel content

You can support my work via Patreon. Get early links to new videos, shout-outs in my videos, and other perks for as little as $1/month.

Your support helps me make more videos and bring you travels from interesting and lesser-known places. Join us! See details, perks, and support tiers at patreon.com/t1dwanderer. Thanks!